EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.

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• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerl

Nuggets:

0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd’s travels to the US

0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment

0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd’s name

0:08:53 – Bernd’s background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering

0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering

0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”

0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines

0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training

0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s

0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders

0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)

0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try

0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering

0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart

0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life

0:42:57 – Bernd’s childhood, and why traveling is important to him

0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands

0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing

0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham

0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it’s like to travel there

1:04:06 – Sustainability

1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling

1:10:34 – Disconnecting

1:11:52 – Shangri-La

1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back

1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing

1:20:41 – Bernd’s projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types

1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway

1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd’s serious injury in 2016

1:39:41 – The healing power of the mind

1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd’s headspace for highballs

1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45’ highball)

1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West

2:03:53 – Bernd’s advice, and brushing

2:07:47 – Bernd’s diet and lifestyle

2:10:39 – Meditation

2:14:59 – Bernd’s unique approach to warming up and finger training

2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body

2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present