The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund: Melitta Baumeister and Henry Zankov on Doing It Your Way

What's Contemporary Now?

Melitta Baumeister and Henry Zankov, the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner and runner-up, are two trailblazing designers working at the intersection of quality and artistry, exploring the tension between fantasy and commercial viability one thoughtful design at a time. Baumeister, a celebrated designer known for her sustainable and ethical approach, launched her eponymous brand in 2011. Her innovative designs merge modern aesthetics with a commitment to environmental consciousness, setting a high standard for sustainable fashion. Henry Zankov, who debuted his label in 2019, combines avant-garde design with exceptional craftsmanship. His background—from his Russian roots to his American influences—shapes his unique, trend-defying vision. Both designers present a singular take on the importance of intention, curiosity, and sculpture—and how to run a label as a business. For Zankov, fashion’s ability to express intention is what’s contemporary now, while Baumeister sees “being concerned about the future” as the zeitgeist.

Episode Highlights:

• Born into a family of tailors in Germany, Baumeister studied tailoring and fashion from an early age.
• Zankov was born in St. Petersburg, Russia, and arrived in the US at the age of nine. Growing very close to New York City in the ’90s, his first interactions with English and the West were mediated through MTV.
• Launching his own label in 2019, Zankov was interested in creating a recognizable visual language unique to his perspective after working as a consultant for years.
• To Baumeister, production difficulties are “finding the right people to work with; being so many positions in one, from the production manager to the pattern maker to handling sales; understanding even how wholesale and fashion is working.”
• Zankov speaks about the need to “reset” how we consume, living slower and more intentionally curated lifestyles.
• Regarding the tension between fantasy and commercial viability, Baumeister says her solution—at the intersection of artistry and sales—is “all in the fabric.”
• Zankov starts with a concept every season, aiming toward a curious customer with inner soulfulness and wisdom.
• Both designers cite the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund as an incredible support for their creative practice.
• Baumeister notes that wholesale gives more reach and territory, while direct-to-customer sales offer more constructive feedback and relationship-building opportunities. Zankov highlights the importance of using both, though DTC allows him to make more accessible garments.
• Zankov sees fashion’s ability to express intention as what’s contemporary now, while Baumeister sees “being concerned about the future” as the zeitgeist.

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