Episode #62 - Managing Fear and Climbing Your Best - PART 1

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time.

The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage risk, and take your climbing to the next level with a higher level of mental mastery.

Podcast Rundown

0:30 - Introduction to this two-part study of fear.

4:45 - A few comments on recent events...

5:00 - World Cup Bouldering Gold for Team USA!

7:00 - My son Cameron sending his first 5.15a, Bone Tomahawk.

10:10 - My appearance on The Nugget Climbing podcast.

11:50 - Overview of FEAR...and what you'll learn in this podcast and the next.

12:28 - What are some of your recent climbing fears? Can you identify a few that were especially acute...or fears that held you back in some way?

14:55 - FEAR #1: Fear of Falling

19:12 - Technique 1: Determine if the fear is reasonable or unreasonable.

25:30 - Technique 2: Take some practice falls in a safe setting

32:54 - Technique 3: Change your interpretation of the fear response.

38:28 - Technique 4: Use positive self-talk to crowd out negative thoughts...and you breath-control to moderate tension and the stress response.

45:10 - FEAR #2 - Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt

49:40 - Technique 1: Is the fear you're experiencing legit or imaginary?

52:24 - Technique 2: Use risk management to shift the odds in your favor...and perhaps continue up the climb safely. Here are FIVE strategies for doing this:

52:52 - 1.) Proactively manage the most obvious dangers.

55:55 - 2.) Consider various "what if" scenarios...and how you will react in each situation.

57:37 - 3.) Constantly discern between "safe fall" and "no fall" situations.

1:01:15 - 4.) Determine if you can handle the worst-case outcome???

1:06:55 - 5.) Listen to your gut instinct when the risk is incalculable.

1:13:00 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

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